Capetown

Wednesday, 03.12.2008
Capetown

Our lightning fast pick up from the ice went very well and even the Ilyushin cargo plane waited for us in Novo. (the next flight out of Antarctica would have been December 19th). From the plateau to the norwegian station Troll, and from there to Novo, was an unbelievable gift, as on our way there we had perfect weather and flew over the most spectacular mountain ranges in all of Antarctica! Incredible!!!

In Troll we meet members of the norwegian crew of scientists who were returning after having spent an antarctic winter (9 months in darkness and isolation in close quaters) at Troll station. We were told that the weather patterns were crazy and unpredictable this spring. Massive storms in areas where it should be quiet and sunny at that time. On the coastal areas one storm systems is chasing another and at Neumayer they get massive amounts of snow, so they are constantly busy digging out their equipment.

The best explaination we get for the absence of the otherwise reliable katabatic winds our expedition route was based on, was that these enormous weather systems on the edge of the continent are cancelling the otherwise dominent winds from the ice cap. In addition to that, it has been a relatively cold spring, so the usual thawing and re-freezing of the surface didn't occur - thus the extremely soft snow conditions, which as you know by now have been extremely challenging for us. It would appear that climate change, increasingly erratic and unpredictable global and local weather changes have reached Antarctica a well....

When we heared from the pilots who layed our depot close to 81Â° latitude, that there was no wind, we finally relax into the inner knowing that indeed we have made the right choice at the right time. So our journey was about something else than reaching the Pole afterall.

Here in Capetown the first thing we did was going shopping in our polar clothes and boots. People looked at us like we were aliens and the lovely women at the store were not sure what to make of us and wether or not to call security when we first walked in.

Meanwhile we are in peace - not only about our decision but about how things unfolded in the process. We both realize how much has shifted and transformed inside of us as we are meeting and interacting with other people. It will take time to integrate and embrace all insights and experiences - and fully understand that indeed all is well!

Also our body has finally understood that the physical demands and extreme demands on it are over and we are extremely tired and exhausted - but well.